Cafe Sbisa Raises Funds Deliciously For Puerto Rico

Cafe Sbisa

Andrea’s. Metairie: 3100 19th St. 504-834-8583.

Roasted Pork Shank (Schweinshaxe)

  • 2 pork knuckles (or hocks or shanks), about 3 lbs. each
  • 1/2 cup salt
  • 1/2 cup sugar
  • 1 cup apple juice
  • 1 Tbs. salt
  • 2 tsp. black pepper
  • 2 medium onions, sliced thinly
  • 4 large cloves garlic, crushed

Serves four to eight.

AlmanacSquare October 3, 2017

Days Until. . .

Halloween: 28
Thanksgiving (Nov. 23): 50

Annals Of American Cuisine

Gourmet Gazetteer

Today’s Flavor

The Old Kitchen Sage Sez:

Edible Dictionary

Deft Dining Rule #431

Eating Around The World

Food Inventions

Food Namesakes

Words To Eat By

Words To Drink By

How To Determine The Age Of Items In Your Refrigerator.

Click here for the cartoon.

Now there was a lot of restaurant mysteries solved quickly!

Batture. Riverbend: 632 S. Carrollton Ave. 504-592-7771.

Pasta Arrabbiatta

Pasta Arrabbiata.

Pasta Arrabbiata.

  • 1 28-oz can whole Italian plum tomatoes
  • 6 cherry tomatoes, seeds removed, chopped
  • 2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1/4 cup chopped white onion
  • 1/2 tsp. crushed red pepper
  • 8 sprigs flat-leaf parsley, leaves only, chopped
  • 6-8 leaves fresh basil, chopped (or 1/2 tsp. dried)
  • 1/2 tsp. salt
  • 1 lb. penne pasta, cooked and drained

1. Drain the juice from the tomatoes and reserve. Crush the tomatoes with your fingers in a bowl.

Serves four.

AlmanacSquare September 29, 2017

Days Until. . .

Halloween: 32
Thanksgiving (Nov. 23): 55

Today’s Flavor

Gourmet Gazetteer

The Old Kitchen Sage Sez:

Edible Dictionary

The Saints

Food Through History

Food On The Air

Food Namesakes

Words To Eat By

Words To Drink By

Fine Visual Art Shows Up In A Restaurant Scene.

Click here for the cartoon.

Public Service. CBD: 311 Baronne St. 504-962-6527.

Risotto With Wild And Exotic Mushrooms

  • Risotto (can do in advance):
  • 2 cups chicken stock
  • 4 Tbs. butter
  • 1 cup Arborio rice
  • 1/2 tsp. salt
  • 2 Tbs. extra virgin olive oil
  • 1/4 cup chopped onions
  • 1/2 tsp crushed red pepper flakes
  • 8 oz. wild or exotic mushrooms: porcini, shiitakes, chanterelles, morels, etc., sliced
  • 2 Tbs. brandy
  • 1/4 cup dry white wine
  • 1/2 cup chicken stock
  • 1 tsp. softened butter
  • 1 Tbs. grated Parmesan cheese
  • 2 Tbs. white truffle oil

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.

1. In a saucepan over medium heat, bring the chicken stock to a light boil.

Serves eight appetizers or four entrees.

AlmanacSquare September 28, 2017

Days Until. . .

Halloween: 33
Thanksgiving (Nov. 23): 56

Local Restaurant Disasters

Edible Dictionary

Today’s Flavor

Gourmet Gazetteer

Deft Dining Rule #134

The best food in a mall food court is served by the ethnic places.

The Saints

Restaurants And Crime

Food Namesakes

Words To Eat By

Words To Drink By

How To Tell When The Dining Room Is At War With The Kitchen.

Click here for the cartoon.

My favorite part of choral singing is in having something the think about other than work.

The Wines Of Alpha Omega @ Galatoire’s 33 Bar & Steak

Louisiana Crab Cake

Late summer corn and mango salsa
Wine: Alpha Omega Chardonnay 2014

Galatoire’s 33

Open-Mouth Pork Chop

  • 1/2 stick butter
  • 4 cloves garlic, chopped
  • 1/4 tsp. crushed red pepper
  • 3 crimini or small portobello mushrooms, sliced
  • 3 firm Italian plum tomatoes, sliced, seeds removed
  • 6 sprigs flat-leaf parsley leaves, chopped
  • 1/4 cup bread crumbs
  • 2 oz. Parmesan cheese
  • 4 16-20 oz. double pork chops
  • Salt
  • Creole seasoning

3. Using a vegetable peeler, slice off thin but wide shavings of the Parmesan cheese.

Serves four.

AlmanacSquare September 27, 2017

Days Until. . .
Halloween: 34

Food Calendar

Annals Of Cognac

Gourmet Gazetteer

Paying For It

Dining At Sea

Annals Of Beer

Personal Influences

Edible Dictionary

Food Namesakes

Words To Eat By

Words To Drink By

The Psychology Of Restaurant Ordering.

Restaurant customers bring more than their tastes to the dining room.

Click here for the cartoon.

####

Pate and croutons at La Provence.

La Provence. Lacombe: 25020 US 190. 985-626-7662.

Chicken With Artichokes And Pasta

Fish with mushrooms and artichokes with sherry sauce.

Panneed chicken with artichokes with a light cream sauce.

  • 4 chicken breasts, deboned and cut into three pieces each
  • 1/2 cup flour
  • 1/2 tsp. salt-free Creole seasoning
  • 1 tsp. salt
  • 1/3 cup olive oil
  • 2 cloves garlic, crushed
  • 6 artichoke hearts, cut into quarters
  • 1 Tbs. lemon juice
  • 2 green onions, sliced finely
  • 1/4 cup whipping cream
  • 1 lb. cooked fettuccine
  • Freshly cracked black pepper

6. Add salt and black pepper to taste.

Serves four.

AlmanacSquare September 26, 2017

Days Until

Halloween: 35

New Orleans Chef’s Hall Of Fame

Today’s Flavor

Banana-nut pancake at Mattina Bella.

Banana-nut pancake at Mattina Bella.

Gourmet Gazetteer

Edible Dictionary

Deft Dining #533

The first pancake in a batch is always the worst one. The second one is the best.

Food In The Wild

Food In Science

Annals Of Cookbook Writing

Food In Show Biz

Food Namesakes

Words To Eat By

Words To Drink By

It Must Be Hummus.

Click here for the cartoon.

Next time I will have a steak.

Rizzuto’s’s. Lakeview: 6262 Fleur de Lis Dr. 504-300-1804.

15 Wines, Six Small Plates, $35 At Ralph’s Tomorrow Night

Ralph’s On The Park

http://nomenu.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/SummerDiningSpecials-200×200.png

French Fries

  • 5 lbs. potatoes
  • Organic canola oil
  • Salt and pepper

Serves eight.

AlmanacSquare September 25, 2017

Days Until. . .

Halloween 36

Deft Dining Rule #14

Gourmet Gazetteer

Edible Dictionary

Annals Of Stadium Eating

Annals Of American Leisure

Wine In War

Food In Science

Food Namesakes

Words To Eat By

Words To Drink By

Now we’re getting somewhere. And that’s why I feel an hour younger.

Oysters Bienville.

Oysters Bienville at Trenasse.

3 Fleur
EntreePrice-28
BreakfastNo Breakfast SundayNo Breakfast MondayNo Breakfast TuesdayNo Breakfast WednesdayNo Breakfast ThursdayNo Breakfast FridayNo Breakfast Saturday
LunchNo Lunch SundayNo Lunch MondayNo Lunch TuesdayNo Lunch WednesdayNo Lunch ThursdayNo Lunch FridayNo Lunch Saturday
DinnerNo Dinner SundayDinner MondayDinner TuesdayDinner WednesdayDinner ThursdayDinner FridayDinner Saturday

Andy’s Bistro

FULL ONLINE MENU

BEST DISHES
Starters

Sandwiches And Hamburgers

  • Dining Environment +1
  • Consistency +1
  • Service+1
  • Value
  • Attitude +2
  • Wine & Bar +1
  • Hipness +1
  • Local Color

 

SPECIAL ATTRIBUTES

  • Sidewalk tables
  • Good for business meetings
  • 25-75
  • Open Monday lunch and dinner
  • Open all afternoon
  • Unusually large servings
  • Good for children
  • Easy, nearby parking
  • Reservations accepted

Filet Mignon au Poivre

Steak au poivre.

  • 4 filets mignon, 8-10 oz. each
  • 1 Tbs. butter
  • 2 tsp. chopped French shallots
  • 1/4 cup brandy
  • 1 Tbs. black peppercorns, cracked
  • 1 cup heavy whipping cream
  • 2 tsp. demi-glace (optional)

5. Place the steaks on warm plates and spoon on the sauce.

Serves four.

AlmanacSquare September 22, 2017

Days Until. . .

Summer ends 1

Today’s Flavor

Food Inventions

Food Through History

Edible Dictionary

Gourmet Gazetteer

Deft Dining Rule #132

When the only finfish on a menu is tilapia or orange roughy, order a steak or a chicken dish.

World Food Records

Worst New Flavor

The Saints

Food Namesakes

Words To Eat By

Words To Drink By

What Happened When I Applied For A Job.

Click here for the cartoon.

Crab and corn bisque @ Legacy Kitchen.

I hear the one on the West Bank has good steaks.

Boudin Blanc

  • 3 or 4 yards of medium sausage casing
  • Stock:
  • 4 chicken leg quarters
  • 1 small pork shoulder (Boston butt)
  • 1 large onion, cut into eighths
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 2 ribs celery, cut up
  • Stems from 1 bunch flat-leaf parsley
  • 1/2 tsp. thyme
  • 1/2 tsp. marjoram
  • 1 tsp. black peppercorns
  • Liver preparation:
  • 4 slices bacon
  • 1 lb. pork liver
  • 1 medium onion, coarsely chopped
  • 1/2 bell pepper, coarsely chopped
  • 1 stick celery, coarsely chopped
  • 1/2 Tbs. cayenne
  • 1 1/2 Tbs. salt
  • 3 cups uncooked short-grain rice (not par-boiled or converted)

Boudin in standard length, lightly grilled.

Makes about twenty-four four-inch links

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AlmanacSquare September 21, 2017

Days Until. . .

Today’s Flavor

Deft Dining Rule #507

Gourmet Gazetteer

The Old Kitchen Sage Sez

Edible Dictionary

Food In Show Biz

Food In Literature

Food Namesakes

Words To Eat By

Words To Drink By

Big Pharma Takes Some Of Its Concoctions To The Arena Of Flavor.

Click here for the cartoon.

Best of all, it didn’t give me stabbing pains in my right foot.

Being able to do the radio show from home is a great help in situations like this.

Barcadia. Warehouse District: 601 Tchoupitoulas St. 504-335-1740.

Hot Bacon Shrimp

  • 24 large (16-21 count) shrimp, peeled and deveined
  • 8 oz. mozzarella cheese
  • 2 chopped jalapeno peppers
  • 12 slices bacon, cooked until browned but not crisp

Hot bacon skewer is found in this group, showing off how versatile the idea is.

1. Wash the shrimp and pat them dry. Butterfly the shrimp, leaving the tail section intact.

2. Cut the cheese into pieces a little smaller than the shrimp. Cut each piece of bacon in half.

Makes twenty-four.

AlmanacSquare September 20, 2017

Days Until. . .

Today’s Flavor

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Gourmet Gazetteer

Annals Of Brewing

Annals Of Food Journalism

Great Moments In Hunger

Edible Dictionary

Annals Of Food Franchising

Alluring Dinner Dates

Kitchen Inventions

Food In Music

Food Namesakes

Words To Eat By

Words To Drink By

Why Do Restaurants Come And Go So Frequently?

Click here for the cartoon.

Well, two out of three isn’t bad.

Tujague’s. French Quarter: 823 Decatur. 504-525-8676.

Potage Printaniere

Chicken consommé, diced local vegetables, truffle dumpling

Tableau

Smoked Cheddar Arancini

  • 1 stick butter
  • 1/2 cup chopped onion
  • 10 oz. Arborio rice (the kind used for risotto; about 1 cup)
  • 1 cup white wine
  • 1 1/2 cup grated smoked cheddar cheese
  • 1 cup flour
  • 4 eggs, beaten
  • 2 cups plain bread crumbs, preferably freshly grated
  • Peanut or canola oil for frying
  • Sauce:
  • 1/4 cup mayonnaise
  • 1/4 cup sour cream
  • 2 Tbs. prepared horseradish
  • 1 tsp. Tabasco chipotle pepper sauce (or 1 Tbs. smoky barbecue sauce)

2. Add the wine and bring to a boil. Stir until the rice absorbs the wine.

8. Mix all the sauce ingredients and serve at cool room temperature with the rice balls.

Serves six.

AlmanacSquare September 18, 2017

Days Until. . .

Food Around The World

Annals Of Cheese

Annals Of Cookies

Today’s Flavor

Deft Dining Rule #766:

Gourmet Gazetteer

Edible Dictionary

Delicious Roles In Television

Food On The Air

Music To Eat Popsicles By

Food Namesakes

Words To Eat By

Words To Drink By.

You Get More Waffle Per Square Inch.

Click here for the cartoon.

Tableau @ Restaurant Week

Turtle Soup

>
~or~

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Tableau

Vol-Au-Vent of Louisiana Seafood

Vol-au-vent of various Louisiana seafoods.

  • 2 Tbs. olive oil
  • 1/2 cup chopped green onions
  • 1 Tbs. chopped French shallots
  • 1/4 cup dry white wine
  • 2 cups heavy cream
  • Pinch saffron threads
  • 1/2 tsp. salt
  • 1/4 tsp. white pepper
  • Pinch cayenne
  • Pinch ground ginger
  • 3 lbs. crawfish tails
  • 1 1/2 tsp. fresh tarragon, chopped (or 1/2 tsp. dried)
  • 6 large vol-au-vents (puff pastry shells)

Serves six.

AlmanacSquare September 15, 2017

Days Until. . .

Gourmets Through History

Turning Points In Eating

Eating Around The World

Today’s Flavor

Deft Dining Rule #2

Eat it where it lives. To paraphrase: When in El Salvador, eat pupusas.

Gourmet Gazetteer

Edible Dictionary

Annals Of Candy

Music To Drink Cheap Wine By

Music To Drink Cognac By

Food Namesakes

Words To Eat By

Words To Drink By

The Source Of Bad Barbecue.

Click here for the cartoon.

Ox Lot 9 at the Southern Hotel.

Ox Lot 9 at the Southern Hotel.

Ox Lot 9. Covington: 428 E Boston St. 985-400-5663.

Josephine Estelle @ New Orleans Restaurant Week.

Oysters

>
Calabrian butter, parmesan, lemon
~or~

Affogato
Stumptown espresso, vanilla gelato

Josephine Estelle

Pineapple Au Poivre

Pineapple au poivre.

  • 1 fresh pineapple
  • 6 Tbs. butter
  • 3/4 cup light brown sugar, packed
  • 4 oz. pineapple juice
  • 2 Tbs. green peppercorns, packed in brine, drained
  • 2 oz. dark rum (not 151 proof!)
  • 1 quart vanilla ice cream

6. Serve the pineapple slices over the ice cream and top with a generous amount of sauce.

Serves six to eight.

AlmanacSquare September 14, 2017

Days Until. . .

Food Calendar

Local Culinary Personalities

The Old Kitchen Sage Sez

Gourmet Gazetteer

Edible Dictionary

Restaurant Namesakes

Food In Science

The Saints

Today’s Worst Flavor

Food Namesakes

Words To Eat By

Words To Drink By

Was Ice Cream In The Original Cone?

Click here for the cartoon.

Smoke House Grill. Bucktown: 200 Hammond Highway. 504-252-4797.

Rosedale For Coolinary/Restaurant Week

Cantaloupe Soup
~or~

Shrimp Puppies

>
~or~

Farm Peach Salad
~~~~~

Sorbet
~~~~~

Ice Cream Sandwich
~~~~~

Bread Pudding
~~~~~

Rosedale

Trout Meuniere Old Style

  • 1/2 cup flour
  • 1 Tbs. salt-free Creole seasoning
  • 1/2 tsp. salt
  • 6 fillets speckled trout, 6-8 oz. each
  • 1 stick butter
  • 1/4 cup veal or beef stock
  • 1 Tbs. lemon juice, strained
  • 1 Tbs. Worcestershire sauce
  • 1 tsp. red wine vinegar
  • Peanut oil for frying

6. Nap with the sauce and serve with lemon wedges.

Serves six.

AlmanacSquare September 8, 2017

Days Until. . .

Deft Dining Rule #195

Rotisserie chicken is the most foolproof dish in restaurants, everywhere on earth.

Gourmet Gazetteer

The Old Kitchen Sage Sez

Our Celebrity Chefs

Edible Dictionary

Music To Eat Veal Parmigiana By

Food Namesakes

Words To Eat By

Words Not To Eat By

Words To Drink By

The Meat Race Is On.

Click here for the cartoon.

Corn Macquechoux

  • 5 ears fresh yellow corn
  • 1 stick butter
  • 1/2 cup chopped onions
  • 1 small red bell pepper, chopped
  • 1 rib celery, chopped
  • 2 small, ripe but firm tomatoes, seeds and pulp removed, chopped
  • 1/2 tsp. salt
  • 1/2 tsp. black pepper
  • 1/4 tsp. cayenne
  • Tabasco jalapeno sauce to taste
  • For an entree:
  • 2 lbs. fresh Louisiana crawfish tails or medium shrimp or andouille sausage (the latter diced)

Makes eight side dishes or four entrees.

Toups South @ Restaurant Week

Heirloom Tomato Salad

>
Home made ricotta, white anchovy, olive vinaigrette
~or~

Daily Milkshake
~~~~~

Toups South

AlmanacSquare September 7, 2017

Days Until. . .

Today’s Flavor

Gourmet Gazetteer

Namesakes Of Great Dishes

Annals Of Cheesemaking

Food In The Funnies

Food On The Radio

Food And Gas Stations

Edible Dictionary

Food Inventors

The Saints

Food Namesakes

Words To Eat By

Words To Drink By

The World’s Worst French Restaurant.

Click here for the cartoon.

Macadamia-Broccoli Stir-Fry

  • 1 bunch (1 lb.) fresh broccoli
  • 1 Tbs. vegetable oil
  • 1/2 tsp, crushed red pepper flakes
  • 1/2 cup orange juice
  • 1 tsp. sugar
  • 1/2 tsp. ground ginger
  • 1/2 tsp. salt
  • 1 cup carrots, sliced diagonally
  • 2 tsp. cornstarch
  • 1/2 cup chopped macadamia nuts

1. Cut broccoli tops into florets and stems into two-inch-long, 1/4-inch-wide strips.

Serves four.

Crescent City Brewhouse

Shrimp Beignets

Crème Brulee

Crescent City Brewhouse

AlmanacSquare September 6, 2017

Days Until. . .

Annals Of Dark Days

Today’s Flavor

Annals Of Food Stores

Food Inventions

Fortunately, this appears to be just an urban legend.

Gourmets Through History

Edible Dictionary

Deft Dining Rule #306:

Gourmet Gazetteer

Annals Of Scotch

Food Namesakes

Words To Eat By

Words To Drink By

Onion-Slicing Tears

Click here for the cartoon.

"Who had the panneed veal and fettuccine?"

Restaurant Week @ Salon Restaurant By Sucre.

Al Fresco Plate

>
Prosciutto, melon, burrata, bruschetta
~or~

Dessert
Choice of Sucré dessert

Salon By Sucre

Filet Mignon Sandwiches

Filet mignon sandwich, dressed.

  • 16 slices heavy French bread, cut about an inch thick
  • 8 slices beef tenderloin, about an inch thick
  • Creole seasoning
  • 2 Tbs. butter
  • 1/2 cup brandy
  • 1 1/2 cups sliced crimini or portobello mushrooms
  • 1 1/2 cups chopped fresh tomatoes
  • 1/2 tsp. salt
  • 1/4 tsp. coarsely-ground black pepper
  • 1/4 tsp. marjoram
  • 1/2 tsp. tarragon
  • 1/2 cup sliced green onions
  • 1/4 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley

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Serves eight.

AlmanacSquare September 5, 2017

Days Until. . .

Restaurant Week: September 11-17.

Gourmets Through History

Annals Of New Orleans Hangouts

Edible Dictionary

Gourmet Gazetteer

Annals Of Funny Cookbook Authors

Annals Of Beef

Food In The Movies

Food Namesakes

Words To Eat By

Words To Drink By

Thinner Waistline, In Two Dimensions.

Click here for the cartoon.

Thursday, August 31, 2017.

All the way, no raindrops fall. The half-moon, on the other hand, is high and bright.

Here’s a list of the restaurant involved with this, and the desserts and cocktails involved:

AlmanacSquare September 1, 2017

Days Until. . .

Labor Day:2…

Oysters R In Season

Half-dozen raw oysters.

Food Calendar

Gourmet Gazetteer

Edible Dictionary

Deft Dining Rule #129

The oyster fishery is in decline in any place where restaurants charge on a per-oyster basis.

The Old Kitchen Sage Sez

Forty Years Of Food Writing

Food Namesakes

Words To Eat Oysters By

Words To Drink By

Simple Syrup

  • 2 cups sugar
  • 1 cup water

Makes about 1 1/4 cups.

The Meat Race Is On.

Click here for the cartoon.

Haricots verts with almonds.

The dessert is a sort of peach bread pudding, although they called it by another name.

Gallagher’s Grill. Covington: 509 S Tyler. 985-892-9992.

Chicken Pannee

  • 8 boneless chicken breasts, or tenderloins
  • 1/2 cup flour
  • 1 tsp. salt
  • 1/4 tsp. salt-free Creole seasoning
  • 2 eggs, beaten
  • 1/4 cup milk
  • Canola or olive oil
  • 1 1/2 cups freshly grated bread crumbs
  • Fresh chopped parsley
  • 2 Tbs. small capers
  • 1 lemon, cut into eight wedges

Serves four to eight.

Last Day Of Coolinary @ Upperline

The Original Fried Green Tomato

Shrimp rémoulade
~or~

Crème Brûlée
~or~

Irish Coffee
~or~

Upperline

AlmanacSquare August 31, 2016

Days Until. . .

Today’s Flavor

Edible Dictionary

The Old Kitchen Sage Sez

Gourmet Gazetteer

Food In Publishing

Music To Forget Food By

Annals Of Drinking

Annals Of Popular Cuisine

Food Namesakes

Words To Eat By

Words To Drink By

Or–even more important–below the waist.

Which Species Of Shark Is Best?

Click here for the cartoon.

Cold-Smoked Gulf FIsh

  • 1 lb. of skinned fillet of mackerel, salmon, pompano, fresh-water trout, or any other good, moderately oily fish.
  • 1 lb. salt
  • 1/2 lb. brown sugar
  • 1 tsp. dried basil
  • 1/2 tsp. black pepper

Smoked mackerel, an under-appreciated Gulf fish, but not for everybody.

1. Fillet and skin the fish, removing any blood lines you may encounter.

Serves twelve appetizers.

Coolinary @ SoBou

Creole Tomato & Pickled Mirliton Gazpacho

~or~

Gumbo du Jour
~or~

Yellowfin Tuna Cones
~~~~~

Shrimp al Ajillo $27
~~~~~

Pecan Pie Not Pie
~or~

SoBou Chocolate Coma Bar

SoBou

AlmanacSquare August 30, 2017

Days Until. . .

Coolinary Summer Specials End: 2.

The Day Of No Restaurants

Today’s Flavor

Food And Wine In Show Biz

Annals Of California Wine

Deft Dining Rule #194

Edible Dictionary

Bridges To Fine Dining

Politics In Food

The Saints

Gourmet Gazetteer

Food Namesakes

Words To Eat By

Words To Drink By

The Opposing Point Of View.

Click here for the cartoon.

Coolinary @ Press Street Station

Corn Shortcakes

Key lime pie
Spiked whipped cream

Press Street Station

Feelings’ Peanut Butter Pie

  • Crust:
  • 3 cups vanilla wafer crumbs
  • 1 stick butter, melted
  • Filling:
  • 8 oz. cream cheese
  • 1/2 cup peanut butter
  • 1/2 can condensed milk
  • 1 cup confectioner’s sugar
  • 1/2 pint whipping cream, whipped
  • (*The restaurant actually uses 10 oz. of Cool Whip instead)
  • Garnish:
  • Shaved chocolate
  • Peanuts

Makes one pie.

AlmanacSquare August 29, 2017

Days Until. . .

Memorable Weather Reports

The day that New Orleans becomes Anywhere, USA is the day she dies.

Our Famous Restaurateurs

Today’s Flavor

Edible Dictionary

Gourmet Gazetteer

Annals Of Dieting

Annals Of Chinese Food

Deft Dining Rule #524:

Books About The Table

Food Namesakes

Words To Eat By

Words To Drink By

A Collection Of Eating Extremes.

Click here for the cartoon.

The Harvey Chronicles. Friday, August 25, 2017.

Coolinary @ Mondo.

Gulf Shrimp Pad Thai
~or~

Mango Empanadas
~or~

House Made Sorbet
~or~

Pot de Crème
~~~~~

Mondo

AlmanacSquare August 25, 2017

Days Until. . .

Roots Of Creole Cooking

People We’d Like To Drink With

Food Calendar

Deft Dining Rule #854

The Old Kitchen Sage Sez

Food On The Air

The Saints

Kitchen Accidents Through History

Food And Drink In The Movies

Gourmet Gazetteer

Edible Dictionary

Food Namesakes

Words To Eat By

Words To Drink By

What The Guy At The Other Table Is Eating Always Looks Better.

Click here for the cartoon.

Mint Julep

Mint julep served in traditional stainless steel cups.

  • About 20 fresh mint leaves, plus more sprigs for garnish, washed gently in gold water
  • 8 oz. simple syrup (see recipe)
  • 8 oz. Bourbon whiskey
  • Crushed ice

Serves four.

Coolinary @ Tommy’s Cuisine.

Dining room @ Tommy’s.

The Coolinary dinner is available at Tommy’s every night.

Creole Turtle Soup
With sherry

Tommy’s Cuisine

AlmanacSquare August 24, 2017

Days Until. . .

Annals Of Popular Cuisine

Gourmet Gazetteer

Deft Dining Rule #125

Today’s Flavor

Edible Dictionary

Disastrous Interruptions Of Dinner

Annals Of Breakfast

Movie Restaurants

Looking Up

The Saints

Food Namesakes

Words To Eat By

Words To Drink By

The Power Of The Potato.

Click here for the cartoon.

Coolinary @ Muriel’s, Among Biggest & Best.

Vanilla Bean Crème Brûlée

Muriel’s

AlmanacSquare August 23, 2017

Days Until. . .

Coolinary Summer Specials End: 8

Today’s Flavor

Gourmet Gazetteer

Edible Dictionary

Eating Around The World

Annals Of Eating Like A King

Annals Of Amphibians

Drinking On Stage

Food In War

Overeating In The Comics

The Saints

Food Namesakes

Words To Eat By

Words To Drink By

Your Choice Of Teas. . .

Click here for the cartoon.

Osaka 21. Covington: 70340 Hwy 21. 985-809-2640.

Stuffed Artichokes

Stuffed artichokes, with plenty of olive oil, bread crumbs and garlic.

  • 4 fresh medium artichokes
  • 2 cups bread crumbs
  • 3 Tbs. chopped fresh garlic
  • 1/4 cup olive oil
  • 4 anchovy fillets, chopped
  • 3 Tbs. chopped fresh parsley
  • 1/4 cup grated Romano cheese
  • 1 tsp. oregano
  • 1/8 tsp. sugar
  • Salt and black pepper to taste
  • One large lemon

Serves four.

New Tujague’s Embraces The Coolinary.

Tujague’s

AlmanacSquare August 22, 2017

Days Until. . .

Annals Of Food Under Pressure

Annals Of Popular Cuisine

Annals Of The High Life

Annals Of Eating Healthy

Music To Drink Cheap Wine By

Gourmet Gazetteer

Edible Dictionary

Deft Dining Rule #470:

Food Namesakes

Words To Eat Spumone By

Words To Drink By

Breaking The Rules When Comparing Fruit.

Click here for the cartoon.

####

New Tujague’s Embraces The Coolinary.

Tujague’s

AlmanacSquare August 22, 2017

Days Until. . .

Annals Of Food Under Pressure

Annals Of Popular Cuisine

Annals Of The High Life

Annals Of Eating Healthy

Music To Drink Cheap Wine By

Gourmet Gazetteer

Edible Dictionary

Deft Dining Rule #470:

Food Namesakes

Words To Eat Spumone By

Words To Drink By

Breaking The Rules When Comparing Fruit.

Click here for the cartoon.

Café B. Old Metairie: 2700 Metairie Road. 504-934-4700.

Windsor Court Grill Room

AlmanacSquare August 18, 2017

Days Until. . .

Today’s Flavor

The Old Kitchen Sage Sez:

Annals Of Seafood

Gourmet Gazetteer

Edible Dictionary

Restaurant Namesakes

Food Namesakes

Words To Eat By

Words To Drink By

Food Humor Is Well Grounded And Familiar.

Click here for the cartoon.

Coolinary @ Vacherie, $25

Tripletail With Sizzling Crabmeat and Herbs

  • 1/3 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley (about half a bunch)
  • 1 Tbs. capers, chopped
  • 2 tsp. chopped fresh garlic
  • 1 dash Worcestershire
  • Juice of 1/4 lemon
  • 4 oz. white crabmeat
  • 4 8-oz. fillets tripletail (or trout, redfish, drum, sheepshead, or other white fish)
  • Salt
  • Pepper
  • 1/2 cup clarified butter

Preheat the broiler and broiler pan.

Serves four.

AlmanacSquare August 16, 2017

Days Until. . .

Edible Dictionary

Gourmet Gazetteer

The Beginnings Of A Great Cocktail

The Gourmet Of The Opera

Annals Of Oyster-Eating

Wine Pioneers

The Saints

Food Names

Words To Drink By

Words To Eat By

Inside Joke For Radio Listeners.

Click here for the cartoon.

Keith Young's (and my) oysters Bienville.

Keith Young’s (and my) oysters Bienville.

Bone-in filet-mignon.

Keith Young’s Steak House. Madisonville: 165 LA 21. 985-845-9940.

Fish On The Half Shell

  • 1/4 cup white wine
  • 1/4 cup olive oil
  • 1 Tbs. soy sauce
  • 1 Tbs. lemon juice
  • 4 large fillets of drum, redfish, or sheepshead, skin and scales on
  • 6 Tbs. butter
  • 2 Tbs. finely chopped garlic
  • 2 Tbs. chopped fresh oregano
  • 4 sprigs parsley, leaves only, chopped
  • Salt and cracked pepper to taste

4. Serve with lemon wedges.

Serves four.

Avo

AlmanacSquare August 15, 2017

Days Until. . .

Annals Of Food Writing

Today’s Flavor

Essential Ingredients

Edible Dictionary

Annals Of Drinking

Citrus At War

Gourmet Gazetteer

Annals Of Military Cuisine

The Saints

Food And Drink Namesakes

Words To Eat French Food By

Words To Drink By

“Drinking is the soldier’s pleasure.”–John Dryden.

The Problem With Heirloom Vegetables.

Click here for the cartoon.

“Yes, that’s it,” the caller says. “How did you know?”

Cypress. Metairie: 4426 Transcontinental. 504-885-6885.

Chocolate and Cafe Au Lait Mousse

French chocolate mousse in a glass topped with whipped cream

  • One pound Baker’s semi-sweet chocolate
  • 6 eggs, separated
  • 1 1/2 cups heavy whipping cream
  • 1/3 cup very strong, warm coffee and chicory
  • 1/4 cup warm milk
  • 2 tsp. vanilla
  • 1/2 cup sugar

Serves six to eight.

Coolinary @ Maypop

A fruit salad at MayPop. Get it while it’s here in the Coolinary.

Maypop

AlmanacSquare August 14, 2017

Days Until. . .

Today’s Flavor

Gourmet Gazetteer

Edible Dictionary

Deft Dining Rule # 349

Entomology In Food

Eating In Our Waning Years

The Saints

Food Namesakes

Words To Eat By

Words To Drink By

What A Mess You Can Make With Espresso.

Click here for the cartoon.

Sunday, August 6, 2017.

Crabmeat And Brie Dip

  • 1 stick butter
  • 1 lb. white crabmeat
  • 1 small onion, chopped
  • 1/3 green bell pepper, chopped
  • 1/2 rib celery, chopped
  • 3 cloves garlic, chopped
  • 1/2 cup white wine
  • Dash Worcestershire sauce
  • 1 pint heavy whipping cream
  • 4 oz. Brie cheese, rind removed
  • 4 oz. cream cheese
  • 1/4 tsp. salt
  • 1/8 tsp. white pepper

Makes about three cups, enough for a party with 12-18 people.

Coolinary And A Week Of Lobsters @ GWFins.

AlmanacSquare August 11, 2017

Days Until. . .

Today’s Flavor

Gourmet Gazetteer

Edible Dictionary

The Old Kitchen Sage Sez

Restaurants In The Comics

Food Coincidences Through History

Food Inventions

Food In Politics

Annals Of Food Research

Food Namesakes

Words To Eat By

Words To Drink By

Figuring Out The Pieces In A Food Court’s Floor Plan.

Click here for the cartoon.

#

Sunday, August 6, 2017. El Paso Mexican Grill.

Mole sauce over enchiladas with cheese and chicken.

Queso dip with chorizo sausage.

El Paso. Mandeville: 3410 Highway 190. 985-624-2345.

RecipeSquareCrab Cakes a la Charley G’s

  • 1 Tbs. olive oil
  • 1 large yellow onion, chopped
  • 1 medium green bell pepper, chopped
  • 2 ribs celery, chopped
  • 1 lb. lump crabmeat
  • 1/2 Tbs. Creole seasoning
  • 1/4 cup thinly sliced green onions
  • 1/4 cup chopped parsley
  • 2 Tbs. Tiger sauce (bottled; available at the supermarket)
  • 1 qt. heavy cream
  • 1 oz. chicken demi-glace (optional)
  • 1 Tbs. granulated onion
  • 1 Tbs. granulated garlic
  • 1 3/4 cups all-purpose flour
  • 1/2 stick melted butter
  • Flour for dredging
  • 4 eggs
  • 2 cups milk
  • 2 sticks margarine, clarified

6. Divide and shape into 16 cakes, all about the same size.

Serve with remoulade sauce or tartar sauce–or nothing at all.

Serves 6-8 crab cakes.

Coolinary At Antoine’s; Three Courses, $39

Antoine’s dining room is about to fill to capacity.

LUNCH MENU: $2017
Charbroiled Oysters
Louisiana oysters topped with garlic, herbs, butter, olive oil and Romano cheese

~or~

~or~

~~~~~

Antoine’s

AlmanacSquare August 10, 2017

Days Until. . .

Today’s Flavor

Gourmet Gazetteer

Edible Dictionary

Food Entrepreneurs

Food In Show Biz

Deft Dining Rule #511

Annals Of Cola

The Saints

Food Namesakes

Words To Eat By

Words To Drink By

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The Missing Pieces In Your Life

Click here for the cartoon.

#

Thursday, August 3, 2017.

Friday, August 4, 2017. Ralph’s On The Park.

Ralph’s On The Park. City Park Area: 900 City Park Ave. 504-488-1000.
Saturday, August 5, 2017.

Bosco’s chicken Marsala.

Mussels Sicilian style.

White-style shrimp remoulade.

Bosco’s. Mandeville: 2040 La Hwy 59. 985-624-5066.

Brown Butter Southern Kitchen

Brown Butter

AlmanacSquare August 9, 2017

Days Until. . .

Annals Of Fishing

Annals Of Smoking

Food Calendar

The Old Kitchen Sage Sez

To really love rice pudding, you must be over seventy.

Gourmet Gazetteer

Cookbooks Through History

Edible Dictionary

Annals Of Public Buildings

Food Namesakes

Words To Eat By

Words To Drink By

Rewriting A Visit To The Butcher.

Click here for the cartoon.

#Saturday, July 29, 2017. Things wouldn’t be so boring if it would stop raining every day. The lawn has grown high again. I’m still working with no success on my my string lawn trimmer. It’s missing either a part or an instruction–both of which are in an owner’s manual whose location I know not. Aside from all that, I have at least been able to take about two-thirds of my walk around the grounds–but on the third lap, at which time I have been walking briskly for over an hour–it started to rain and I couldn’t finish up.

Fountain Lounge

Red Bean Soup

  • 2 Tbs. olive oil
  • 1 cup finely slivered carrots
  • 1 cup finely chopped celery
  • 1/2 cup chopped onions
  • 1 tsp. summer savory
  • 1 quart beef or veal broth
  • 1/2 cup brandy
  • 6 cups cooked red beans (or 3 cans Blue Runner red beans, if you’re rushed)
  • 3/4 lb. andouille or smoked sausage, sliced as thin as you can
  • 1/2 tsp. salt
  • 1 Tbs. Louisiana hot sauce
  • 2 green onions, chopped

2. Add the beef broth and return to a simmer.

3. Puree the red beans in a food processor, and add them to the pot.

5. Add salt, pepper and hot sauce, and serve topped with chopped green onions for garnish.

Serves six to eight.

AlmanacSquare August 7, 2017

Days Until. . .

Annals Of Entrances

Today’s Flavor

People We’d Like To Dine With

Gourmet Gazetteer

Edible Dictionary

File gumbo.

Deft Dining Rule #771

The Old Kitchen Sage Sez:

Food Namesakes

Words To Eat By

Words To Drink By

Travel Diary

Click here for the Marys-In-England Diary.

Tough Eggs.

Click here for the cartoon.

#Friday, July 28, 2017. Filippo Is The House Of Fans.

Chef Filippo.

Quail With Figs

  • 4 Tbs. butter
  • 4 ripe, medium-size figs, chopped
  • 1 clove garlic, chopped
  • 4 quail, deboned except for legs and wings, butterflied
  • 1/2 tsp. salt
  • 1/4 tsp. ground black pepper
  • 1/4 cup Madiera or tawny port wine
  • Chopped parsley

1. Heat the butter in a skillet and saute the garlic and the figs for about a minute.

Serves four

Turtle Soup
~or~

Dickie Brennan’s Steakhouse

AlmanacSquare August 4, 2017

Days Until. . .

Satchmo Summer Fest begins today, through the weekend.2
Coolinary Summer Specials End 27 day from today

(though some places will keep the Coolinary going a week or two more.

Music To Eat Red Beans And Rice By

Food Calendar

Gourmet Gazetteer

Annals Of Snack Food

Annals Of Wine Marketing

Annals Of Popular Cuisine

Edible Dictionary

Food And Drink Namesakes

Words To Eat By

Words To Drink By

An Oh-So-Familiar Dining Dilemma.

Click here for the cartoon.

#Wednesday, July 26, 2017. Where Have I Been Since My Last Visit to Bistro Daisy?Tony and Diane Schulte, the owners of Bistro Daisy, were guests on the radio show a few days ago. Which made me wonder why it’s been so long since last I fined there. I think chef Anton’s cooking is not just original and first-class in terms of both ingredients and techniques, but it’s also a bargain, with most entrees in the $20s. The Schultes have a long history of great dining, having run the kitchens first at Peristyle and the La Petite Grocery later.

Bistro Daisy. Uptown 3: Napoleon To Audubon: 5831 Magazine. 504-899-6987.

Lakehouse. Mandeville: 2025 Lakeshore Dr. 985-626-3006.
We used to celebrate summertime at Dick and Jenny’s because it was the only time of year when you wouldn’t have to wait a long time for a table. Now that they take reservations, life is a lot easier. And we’re free to note that Dick & Jenny’s is ready to go with its annual Coolinary menu. Two choices in three courses, starting this week.

Dick & Jenny’s

Chicken-Andouille Gumbo

  • 1 6-lb. hen
  • 1/2 cup vegetable oil
  • 1/2 cup flour
  • 1 large onion, chopped
  • 1 red bell pepper, chopped
  • 2 cloves garlic, chopped
  • 3 sprigs chopped flat-leaf parsley
  • 3 quarts chicken stock (or water)
  • 1 Tbs. salt
  • 1 tsp. black pepper
  • 1/4 tsp. Tabasco
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 1/4 tsp. dried thyme
  • 1 lb. andouille or smoked sausage
  • 2 green onions, chopped
  • 2-3 cups cooked rice
  • Filé powder

8. Serve over cooked long-grain rice with a pinch or two of filé at the table.

Serves six to ten.

AlmanacSquare August 3, 2015

Days Until. . .

Coolinary Summer Specials End 27

Food Calendar

Gourmet Gazetteer

Edible Dictionary

The Old Kitchen Sage Sez:

Annals Of Elegant Dining

Annals Of Bad Food

Restaurant-Enhancing Inventions

Long Reaches For Almanac Entries

Music To Eat Rice-A-Roni By

Food Namesakes

Words To Eat By

Words To Drink By

What A First-Class Dinner Can Result In.

Click here for the cartoon.

SUBSCRIBER NOTE
Yesterday you didn’t receive an e-mail edition of the NewOrleans Menu Daily. Nor did the top articled make it into print. Reason: I had an eye examination, complete with dilated pupils, that made it almost impossible for me to read a computer screen. We’re catching up on everything that should have appeared yesterday. I am flattered by the number of people concerned as to what happened. Please accept my apology.

We used to celebrate summertime at Dick and Jenny’s because it was the only time of year when you wouldn’t have to wait a long time for a table. Now that they take reservations, life is a lot easier. And we’re free to note that Dick & Jenny’s is ready to go with its annual Coolinary menu. Two choices in three courses, starting this week.

Dick & Jenny’s

Chicken-Andouille Gumbo

  • 1 6-lb. hen
  • 1/2 cup vegetable oil
  • 1/2 cup flour
  • 1 large onion, chopped
  • 1 red bell pepper, chopped
  • 2 cloves garlic, chopped
  • 3 sprigs chopped flat-leaf parsley
  • 3 quarts chicken stock (or water)
  • 1 Tbs. salt
  • 1 tsp. black pepper
  • 1/4 tsp. Tabasco
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 1/4 tsp. dried thyme
  • 1 lb. andouille or smoked sausage
  • 2 green onions, chopped
  • 2-3 cups cooked rice
  • Filé powder

8. Serve over cooked long-grain rice with a pinch or two of filé at the table.

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Serves six to ten.

AlmanacSquare August 3, 2015

Days Until. . .

Coolinary Summer Specials End 27

Food Calendar

Gourmet Gazetteer

Edible Dictionary

The Old Kitchen Sage Sez:

Annals Of Elegant Dining

Annals Of Bad Food

Restaurant-Enhancing Inventions

Long Reaches For Almanac Entries

Music To Eat Rice-A-Roni By

Food Namesakes

Words To Eat By

Words To Drink By

What A First-Class Dinner Can Result In.

Click here for the cartoon.

We used to celebrate summertime at Dick and Jenny’s because it was the only time of year when you wouldn’t have to wait a long time for a table. Now that they take reservations, life is a lot easier. And we’re free to note that Dick & Jenny’s is ready to go with its annual Coolinary menu. Two choices in three courses, starting this week.

Dick & Jenny’s

Chicken-Andouille Gumbo

  • 1 6-lb. hen
  • 1/2 cup vegetable oil
  • 1/2 cup flour
  • 1 large onion, chopped
  • 1 red bell pepper, chopped
  • 2 cloves garlic, chopped
  • 3 sprigs chopped flat-leaf parsley
  • 3 quarts chicken stock (or water)
  • 1 Tbs. salt
  • 1 tsp. black pepper
  • 1/4 tsp. Tabasco
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 1/4 tsp. dried thyme
  • 1 lb. andouille or smoked sausage
  • 2 green onions, chopped
  • 2-3 cups cooked rice
  • Filé powder

8. Serve over cooked long-grain rice with a pinch or two of filé at the table.

Serves six to ten.

AlmanacSquare August 3, 2015

Days Until. . .

Coolinary Summer Specials End 27

Food Calendar

Gourmet Gazetteer

Edible Dictionary

The Old Kitchen Sage Sez:

Annals Of Elegant Dining

Annals Of Bad Food

Restaurant-Enhancing Inventions

Long Reaches For Almanac Entries

Music To Eat Rice-A-Roni By

Food Namesakes

Words To Eat By

Words To Drink By

What A First-Class Dinner Can Result In.

Click here for the cartoon.

#Tuesday, July 25,2017. Crossing The Pond.

Hard fruit salad at Maypop.

Lamb belly at Maypop.

I now am ready to write the review for publication next week.

Maypop. CBD: 611 O’Keefe Ave. 504-518-6345.

Pan-Sauteed Catfish With Cajun Crawfish Butter

  • 2/3 cup vegetable oil for frying
  • 1/4 cup sliced green onions
  • 1/4 cup sliced mushrooms
  • 1 Tbs. chopped garlic
  • 1 small tomato, pulp and seeds removed, diced
  • 1 link andouille or smoked sausage, sliced about 1/8 inch thick
  • 1/4 cup dry white wine
  • 1 Tbs. lemon juice
  • 8 oz. fresh Louisiana crawfish tails
  • 1 1/2 sticks butter
  • 1 tsp. salt-free Creole seasoning
  • 1/2 tsp. salt
  • 1 cup flour
  • 1/2 tsp. salt
  • 1/4 tsp. black pepper
  • 1/8 tsp. cayenne
  • 8 four-ounce catfish fillets
  • 1/2 cup milk
  • 2 eggs
  • 1 cup cornmeal
  • 1 tsp. salt
  • 1/4 tsp. black pepper
  • 1/8 tsp. cayenne

Serves four.

AlmanacSquare August 1, 2017

Days Until. . .

Satchmo Summer Fest 4
Coolinary Summer Specials End 31 day from today

(though some places will keep the Coolinary going a week or two more.

Today’s Flavor

Food Around The World

Food In Show Biz

Hooch Through History

Annals Of Motel Dining

Inventions In Eating

Bad Moments In Dining

Annals Of Candy

Gourmet Gazetteer

Edible Dictionary

Hot boudin and cold coush-coush
Come on Tigers, let’s push push push!

Deft Dining Rule #405

Food Namesakes

Words To Eat By

Words To Drink By

One Of The Most Disappointing Moments In Childhood Eating.

Click here for the cartoon.

Sunday, July 23, 2017. I Don’t Know Where I Am.

Impastato Cellars. Madisonville: 240 Highway 22 E. 985-845-4445.

We used to celebrate summertime at Dick and Jenny’s because it was the only time of year when you wouldn’t have to wait a long time for a table. Now that they take reservations, life is a lot easier. And we’re free to note that Dick & Jenny’s is ready to go with its annual Coolinary menu. Two choices in three courses, starting this week.

Dick & Jenny’s

Stewed Okra And Tomatoes

  • 1 onion, chopped
  • 1 lb. okra, sliced
  • 2 Tbs. bacon drippings
  • 3 1/2 cups chopped medium tomatoes
  • 1 tsp. salt
  • 2 cloves garlic, chopped
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 1 sprig fresh thyme, leaves only (or 1/2 tsp. dried thyme leaves

2. Add the tomatoes and remaining ingredients. Cook for a minute, then lower the heat.

3. Cover the pan and simmer the contents for 25-30 minutes.

Serves four.

AlmanacSquare July 31, 2017

Days Until. . .

Today’s Flavor

Edible Dictionary

Gourmet Gazetteer

Deft Dining Rule #810

Music To Dine By

Food And Weather

Food Namesakes

Words To Eat By

Words To Drink By

Yes.

Tortellini Veronese

  • 1 lb. (dry) cheese tortellini
  • 1/2 stick butter
  • 1/2 cup French shallots, chopped
  • 1 Tbs. garlic, chopped
  • 1/4 tsp. crushed red pepper
  • 1/3 cup dry white wine
  • 1 lb. sea scallops, cut crosswise into three thin slices each, or 1 lb. crawfish tails, cooked (if you can’t get scallops)
  • 1 Tbs. fresh basil, chopped
  • 1 Tbs. chopped parsley
  • 1 Tbs. chopped red pepper
  • 5 pitted black olives, washed and chopped
  • 1 pint whipping cream
  • 3 oz. pine nuts, toasted

3. Lower the heat to medium-low. Add the sliced scallops and cook for about two minutes.

Serves four.

500BestSquareSoft-Shell Crab Grenobloise @ Cafe Lynn

Soft-shell crab @ Cafe Lynn. It's a cabdidate for best soft-shell in town.

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Soft-shell crab @ Cafe Lynn. It’s a candidate for best soft-shell in town.

Cafe Lynn. Mandeville: 2600 Florida St. 985-624-9007.

AlmanacSquare July 28, 2017

Days Until. . .

Food Calendar

Deft Dining Rule #118

Edible Dictionary

Annals Of Vegetables

Gourmet Gazetteer

Music To Eat Gumbo By

Kitchen Inventors

Big Mouths

Annals Of Popular Cuisine

Annals Of Food Writing

Food Namesakes

Words To Eat By

Words To Drink By

Wines Of Dubious Origin Arrive In U.S.

Click here for the cartoon.

#Friday, July 21, 2017. Dinner @ Arnaud’s With A Financial Adviser.

Shrimp Arnaud (remoulade, really)

Pork chop and lima beans at Pardo’s.

Sheepshead at Pardo’s.

Watermelon Salsa

Tacos with watermelon salsa and avocados.

  • 2 cups watermelon pulp, chopped
  • 2 cups chopped fresh ripe tomato, skin and seeds removed
  • 1/4 cup fresh chopped cilantro leaves (optional)
  • 1 cup chopped white onion
  • 2 Tbs. Tabasco green pepper sauce
  • 1 clove garlic, very finely chopped
  • 1/4 cup lime juice
  • 1 Tbs. cider vinegar (or pepper vinegar)
  • 1/2 tsp. salt
  • 1/2 tsp. cumin
  • 1 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil

Makes four cups.

500BestSquareBouillabaisse @ Bistro Daisy

Bistro Daisy. Uptown: 5831 Magazine. 504-899-6987.

AlmanacSquare July 27, 2017

Days Until. . .

Drinking Calendar

Edible Dictionary

Culinary Equation

Rob Roy = Manhattan – Bourbon – Cherry + Blended Scotch + Lemon twist

Deft Dining Rule #190

Gourmet Gazetteer

Annals Of Bad Taste

Annals Of Famine

Great Saloon Writers

Food Namesakes

Words To Eat By

Words To Drink By

Warnings From The Waitress.

Click here for the cartoon.

#Thursday, July 20, 2017. Manale’s Surrounded By Water.
The Garden District doesn’t flood often, but whenever it does, it becomes harder to get around the neighborhood (and Center City and the Irish Channel) than seems possible. But it is possible, and then some. The last time I had to deal with this, about a year ago, I came very close to going perhaps as much as a foot and a half deep. I always heard that the oldest parts of town were the ones unlikely to flood.

Tournedos with bearnaise at Pascal’s Manale.

Pascal’s Manale. Uptown: 1838 Napoleon Ave. 504-895-4877.

Louisiana Shrimp and Broccoli, Chinese Style

Shrimp and broccoli Chinese style.

Shrimp and broccoli Chinese style.

  • Marinade:
  • 1 1/2 tsp. dry sherry
  • 1/2 tsp. salt
  • 1 egg white
  • 1 1/2 tsp. cornstarch
  • 1 tsp. sesame oil
  • Sauce:
  • 1/2 tsp. dry sherry
  • 1/2 tsp. sugar
  • 3 Tbs. water
  • 1/2 tsp. cornstarch
  • 1/2 tsp. vinegar
  • 1/2 tsp. Chinese oyster sauce
  • 2 Tbs. soy sauce
  • 3 lbs. large Louisiana shrimp, peeled and deveined
  • 1/2 lb. broccoli florets
  • 1/2 sliced carrot
  • 2 Tbs. bamboo shoots, sliced
  • 2 Tbs. water chestnuts, sliced
  • 1/2 cup vegetable oil
  • 1/2 tsp. chopped garlic
  • 2 Tbs. chicken stock
  • Steamed rice

2. Mix the sauce ingredients and set aside.

3. Boil the vegetables for two minutes, until tender but still crisp. Remove and reserve.

Serve immediately with steamed rice on the side.

Serves six.

500BestSquareFried Eggplant @ Galatoire’s

Galatoire’s. French Quarter: 209 Bourbon. 504-525-2021.

AlmanacSquare July 26, 2017

Days Until. . .

Restaurant Birthdays

Food Calendar

Pad thai at Thai Pepper.

Pad thai at Thai Pepper.

Gourmet Politicians Through History

Annals Of Japanese Cuisine

Annals Of Cheese

Deft Dining Rule #189

Gourmet Gazetteer

Edible Dictionary

Vegetarians Through History

Looking Up

Eating Around The World

Food And Drink Namesakes

Words To Eat By

Words To Drink By

The Two Things Men Care About Most.

Click here for the cartoon.

#Tuesday, July 18, 2017. Twenty-One Years In Two Ways.
Today is the twenty-ninth anniversary of the launching of The Food Show. It’s a miracle in radio broadcasting that such a non-mainstream program would get on the air in the first place, let alone keep going with the same host and station all that time. It’s by quite a bit the longest-running show of any kind in New Orleans radio.

Sala’s panneed chicken.

Sala. West End & Bucktown: 124 Lake Marina Ave. 504-513-2670.

500BestSquareCoconut Creme Pie @ MeMe’s

MeMe’s. St. Bernard Parish: 712 W. Judge Perez Dr. 504-644-4992.

Pastry Cream

  • 1 quart milk
  • 4 Tbs. cornstarch
  • 2 eggs
  • 1 tsp. vanilla
  • 4 Tbs. butter
  • 1 cup sugar

Makes about a quart.

AlmanacSquare July 25, 2017

Days Until. . .

Today’s Flavor

Gourmet Gazetteer

Edible Dictionary

Deft Dining Rule #229

Culinary Influences Through History

Food Inventions

The Saints

People I’d Like To Dine With Again

Music To Dine Noisily By

Food Namesakes

Words To Eat By

Words To Drink By

Pet Store Rules, Food Department.

Click here for the cartoon.

#Sunday, July 16, 2017. Trimming.
I grab my big pipe wrench and bend the metal back from the clipping shield blades in my tractor/mower. The blades seem to be out of the way of the shield, but I don’t have time to check it out–it’s radio showtime. Just two hours on the air today, and the audience seems to be aloof.

Yes, it was a rather dull weekend.

But what a location!

Eggroll House. Metairie: 3507 Veterans Blvd. 504-887-9364.

Gnochetti Pasta Al Ragu
Italian sausage, San Marzano tomatoes, zucchini, and fresh ricotta. Cooper Mountain Pinot Noir, Willamette ’13
~or~

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Delmonico. Garden District: 1300 St Charles Ave. 504-525-4937.

AlmanacSquare July 24, 2017

Days Until. . .

Annals Of Gelato

Drinking Calendar

Edible Dictionary

Gourmet Gazetteer

Annals Of Food Writing

Food And Politics

Annals Of Bad Coffee

Food Namesakes

Words To Eat By

“Mayonnaise, n.: One of the sauces which serve the French in place of a state religion.”

Words To Drink By

How Naps Fit In At A Barbecue.

Click here for the cartoon.

Upcoming Eat Club Dinners
Lakehouse In Mandeville
Scroll down for details, menus, reservation form, list of reservations and general info about the Eat Club.

Click here to reserve.

The Lakehouse has a long history. It went up on the Mandeville lakefront in the 1840s, and became a restaurant in the 1890s. It’s been that ever since. After repairs of hurricane and fire damage in the past decade, the big two-story house is beautiful, with an expansive view of Lake Pontchartrain. Cayman Sinclair, who has been involved in major North Shore dining for over 20 years, has kept up the historic look while Chef Marlon Hornsby pushes ahead with the Lakehouse’s cuisine. It’s decidedly up to date, but at the same time familiar. The Eat Club will show just how good the Lakehouse is with a dinner on Thursday, July 27. Four courses of classy eats with paired wines, to wit:

Dark Chocolate Pâté
Blueberry coulis, spiced pecan-rum butter

28

It was a pleasant evening despite the few defects. And, again I tell you, the place just opened.

Legacy Kitchen (Due North). Mandeville: 2981 US 190. 985-626-5566.

Creole Tartar Sauce

  • 1 cup mayonnaise
  • 2 Tbs. tomatoes, skin, seeds, and pulp removed, chopped
  • 1/2 Tbs. very small capers
  • 1 tsp. sweet relish, drained
  • 1 tsp. dill relish, drained
  • 1/2 tsp. horseradish
  • 1 tsp. lemon juice, strained
  • Cayenne pepper to taste

500BestSquareBennachin (Jambalaya) @ Bennachin

Bennachin. French Quarter: 1212 Royal. 504-522-1230.

AlmanacSquare July 21, 2017

Days Until. . .

Today’s Flavor

Gourmet Gazetteer

Ruined Picnics Through History

Edible Dictionary

Food In Literature

Music To Eat At Little Tables By

Food Around The World

The Saints

Food Namesakes

Words To Eat By

Words To Drink By

Do Nice Restaurants Finish Last?

Click here for the cartoon.

####

Daniel Bonnot
Gerard Crozier
Roland Huet
Rene Bajeux
Claude Aubert

The best table at Brigtsen’s, some say.

Veal sweetbreads @ Brigtsen’s.

Filet mignon with marchand de vin sauce and the tiniest onion rings in town.

Riverbend: 723 Dante. 504-861-7610.

Chef Goffredo’s Crabmeat Ravioli

Clockwise from bottom left: Goffredo Fraccaro, Warren Leruth, Chris Kerageorgiou, Frank Levy, Phil Johnson.

  • Pasta dough:
  • 1 cup semolina flour
  • 1 cup all-purpose flour
  • 1 tsp. extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1 tsp. clarified butter
  • Crabmeat stuffing:
  • 1/2 cup whipping cream
  • 6 Tbs. softened butter
  • 1/2 tsp. salt
  • 1/4 tsp. white pepper
  • 1 lb. lump or white crabmeat
  • 1/4 cup very thinly snipped green onion, tender green parts only
  • 1/2 cup cracker crumbs (from unsalted crackers, ground fine in a food processor)
  • 1/4 cup finely (and freshly) grated parmesan cheese
  • Sauce:
  • 1 cup whipping cream
  • 1/4 cup butter
  • 1/4 tsp. salt
  • Pinch of cayenne
  • 1/8 tsp. white pepper
  • 1/2 cup grated parmesan cheese

8. Move the crabmeat mixture into a bowl and refrigerate until distinctly cool.

Serves 12 appetizers or six entrees.

500BestSquareLemon Ice Box Pie @ Clancy’s

Clancy’s. Uptown: 6100 Annunciation. 504-895-1111.

AlmanacSquare July 20, 2017

Days Until. . .

Food Calendar

Looking Up

Annals Of Oenophilia

Annals Of Cheese

Roots Of Our Cuisine

Edible Dictionary

Gourmet Gazetteer

Food Namesakes

Words To Eat By

Words To Drink By

Adjusting To The Taste Of The Chef.

Click here for the cartoon.

#Thursday, July 13, 2017. Public Service, Three Days Old. Mary Ann and I were to have dinner tonight, with my choice of venues. But as the radio show went off, she called back to rescind that offer, because she and Mary Leigh were already seated in the bar of a three-day-old restaurant.

The bread pudding is good, but could pass as lost bread.

Filet @ Public Service.

Public Service. CBD: 311 Baronne St. 504-962-6527.

Pasta with White Beans and Bacon

  • 2 Tbs. bacon fat
  • 1 Tbs. olive oil
  • 1 Tbs. chopped garlic
  • 1/2 cup sliced mushrooms
  • 1/4 cup sliced green onions
  • 1 roasted bell pepper, chopped
  • 8 slices bacon, fried medium crisp, crumbled
  • 1/4 cup chopped fresh basil
  • 1/4 tsp. crushed red pepper
  • 2 cups cooked white beans (leftovers are best)
  • 2 cups chicken broth
  • 8 oz. (precooked weight) cooked broad pasta, shells, or tubes

3. Serve in a soup bowl with a generous sprinkling of grated parmesan cheese and chopped parsley.

Serves four.

500BestSquareCarnitas @ El Mesquite Mexican Grill

Chicken with mole and rice at El Mesquite Grill.

El Mesquite Mexican Grill. Gretna: 516 Gretna Blvd. 504-367-1022.

AlmanacSquare July 19, 2017

Days Until. . .

Restaurant Namesakes

Edible Dictionary

Gourmet Gazetteer

Food Holidays

Deft Dining Rules #287 and #288

Food Calendar

The Old Kitchen Sage Sez

Food Trademarks

Food In Music

Worst Flavor Of The Day

Food Namesakes

Words To Eat By

Words To Drink By

House Rules Can Make A Good Restaurant annoying.

Click here for the cartoon.

#Saturday, July 8, 2017. Impastato Cellars With Our Neighbor. A lady who raises horses and chickens near the Cool Water Ranch has become a closer friend in recent years by way of feeding our two dogs and three cats while we are out of town. We watch her menagerie when she’s gone, so that should work out–but we’re gone a lot more than she is. We have offered her cash, but she won’t take it. She prefers being taken out to dinner at the likes of Keith Young’s Steak House, Gallagher’s Grill, and other first-class North Shore restaurants. That is better for us, too, giving us an excuse to eat in some of our favorite places.

Cellar with table, Impastato Cellars.

Cellar with table, Impastato Cellars.

Impastato Cellars. Madisonville: 240 Highway 22 E. 985-845-4445.

Legacy Kitchen “Due North.” Mandeville: 2981 US 190. 985-626-5566.

Dirty fried rice. Very peppery.

Dirty fried rice. Very peppery.

Red’s Chinese. Bywater: 3048 St. Claude Ave. 504-304-6030.

Chicken Newsham

Chicken wrapped in phyllo, with stuffed grape leaves on the side.

  • 4 boneless, skinless chicken breasts
  • 1 Tbs. olive oil
  • 2 Tbs. flour
  • 1 tsp. salt
  • 1/2 tsp. pepper
  • 1/2 tsp. dill
  • 1 10-oz. bag fresh spinach
  • 1 1/2 tsp. fresh chopped garlic
  • 1 Tbs. lemon juice, strained
  • 6 oz. kasseri cheese, thinly sliced
  • Phyllo pastry leaves
  • 1 1/2 cups tzatziki sauce (see recipe)

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Serves twelve appetizers.

500BestSquareDuck Tchoupitoulas @ Tommy’s

Tommy’s. Warehouse District: 746 Tchoupitoulas. 504-581-1103.

AlmanacSquare July 18, 2017

Days Until. . .

Food On The Road

Food Calendar

Deft Dining Rule #715

Gourmet Gazetteer

Edible Dictionary

Food On The Air

Food In Art Supplies

Food And Drink Namesakes

Words To Eat By

Words To Drink By

The Differences Between Home Cooking And Restaurant Food.

Click here for the cartoon.

#Wednesday, July 2, 2017. The post-holiday catchup begins. I get to work on the pile waiting at my desk for me. The emails run somewhere between 250 and 300 messages. I’m giving about two seconds to each, but it still takes all the evening from sundown until after dark. I go as late as I can see straight, at which time Mary Ann asks if I’d like to watch a movie. She’s always urging me to get away from the computer screen and watch the television screen for awhile. She rightly knows that after two weeks of semi-leisure, I want to continue relaxing.

El Paso. Mandeville: 3410 Highway 190. 985-624-2345.

Porter & Luke. Old Metairie: 1517 Metairie Road. 504-875-4555.

Thursday, July 6, 2017. Inspiration In Carpentry. Peppermill.

Peppermill DiningRoom

Pelican Club. French Quarter: 615 Bienville. 504-523-1504.

Three Courses, $39
Plus tax and gratuity

APPETIZERS
Shrimp, Chicken and Andouille Sausage Gumbo

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Korean 24-Hour-Cooked Boneless Baby Back Ribs
With spicy kimchee

Vegetarian Market Platter of the Day

Seared Sashimi Grade Tuna and Chinois Salad
Soy wasabi glaze and avocado

DESSERTS
Chocolate Decadence Cake

White Chocolate Bread Pudding

Coconut Cream Pie

Banana Pudding

Choice of appetizer, entree and dessert. Limit 12 guests. Please, no sharing.

Selected Cocktail and Wine Pairings
(Three for $24, mix and match)

SELECTED WINES
Sparkling
Comte de Lafayette Rose France NV

Rosé
Guilhem Rosé Languedoc France ’16

Cannoli

Cannoli, dressed up, from VIncent’s.

  • Shells:
  • 1 1/4 cup all-purpose flour
  • 5 Tbs. Marsala wine
  • 1 Tbs. sugar
  • Pinch of cocoa powder
  • Pinch cinnamon
  • Pinch salt
  • Vegetable oil for frying
  • Filling:
  • 1 lb. ricotta cheese
  • 1 cup sugar
  • 1/2 cup mixed jellied fruit (as for fruitcake)
  • 2 Tbs. chocolate chips
  • 1 Tbs. vanilla
  • 1/2 oz. triple sec liqueur
  • Garnish:
  • Chopped pistachio nuts
  • Chocolate shavings
  • Powdered sugar

Makes 18-24 cannoli.

500BestSquareSpinach Pie @ Byblos

Byblos. Old Metairie: 1501 Metairie Rd. 504-834-9773.

Uptown: 3218 Magazine. 504-894-1233.

AlmanacSquare July 17, 2017

Days Until. . .

Restaurant Anniversaries

Annals Of Dining Comfort

Today’s Flavor

Edible Dictionary

Gourmet Gazetteer

The Lunch Counter

Restaurant Namesakes

Fromage Du Jour

Music To Watch Movies By

Food And Drink Namesakes

Words To Eat By

Words To Drink By

Extreme Overeating.

Click here for the cartoon.

####

Upcoming Eat Club Dinners
Lakehouse In Mandeville
Scroll down for details, menus, reservation form, list of reservations and general info about the Eat Club.

Click here to reserve.

The Lakehouse has a long history. It went up on the Mandeville lakefront in the 1840s, and became a restaurant in the 1890s. It’s been that ever since. After repairs of hurricane and fire damage in the past decade, the big two-story house is beautiful, with an expansive view of Lake Pontchartrain. Cayman Sinclair, who has been involved in major North Shore dining for over 20 years, has kept up the historic look while Chef Marlon Hornsby pushes ahead with the Lakehouse’s cuisine. It’s decidedly up to date, but at the same time familiar. The Eat Club will show just how good the Lakehouse is with a dinner on Thursday, July 27. Four courses of classy eats. with paired wines, to wit:

Dark Chocolate Pâté
Blueberry coulis, spiced pecan-rum butter

Shirred Eggs with Crabmeat Remick

  • 6 slices smoky, thick bacon
  • 1 lb. jumbo lump crabmeat
  • 1 Tbs. lemon juice
  • 12 eggs
  • Sauce:
  • 1/2 tsp. salt-free Creole seasoning
  • 1/4 tsp. salt
  • 1/2 tsp. Tabasco
  • 1/4 cup bottled chili sauce
  • 1/2 cup mayonnaise
  • 1 Tbs. Creole mustard
  • 1 green onion, tender green parts only, sliced fine.
  • 1 Creole mustard
  • 1 Tbs. tarragon vinegar

Eggs Remick, before the eggs are added.

1. Slice the bacon into squares and fry till crisp. Drain very well and set aside.

3. While waiting for crabmeat to warm, blend all the sauce ingredients.

Serves six.

500BestSquareCrab On Crab @ Cafe B

Crab on crab.

Cafe B. Old Metairie: 2700 Metairie Road. 504-934-4700.

AlmanacSquare July 14, 2017

Days Until. . .

Vive La France!

Food Calendar

Gourmet Gazetteer

Edible Dictionary

Deft Dining Rule #115

Annals Of Cheesemaking

Annals Of Popular Cuisine

Food And Drink Namesakes

Words To Eat By

Words To Drink By

Prepared Especially For You.

Click here for the cartoon.

“Where is everybody?” I ask.

“What are you doing here?” he asks.

“I’m here for the Saturday show,” I say.

I’m off, all right. But I push ahead. “So this is the Third of July?”

Fried artichoke hearts and thin-sliced fried onion rings at Crabby’s Shack.

Crabby’s Seafood Shack. Madisonville: 305 Covington. 985-845-2348.

Fish In A Salt Dome

  • 1 whole Gulf fish, 2 to 4 pounds, dressed
  • 2 boxes kosher salt

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.

500BestSquareSmoked Salmon And Bagel @ Stein’s Deli

Bagel, lox, cream cheese, capers, and dill

Stein’s Deli. Uptown: 2207 Magazine . 504-527-0771.

AlmanacSquare July 13, 2017

Days Until. . .

Celebrity Chefs Today

Food Calendar

Deft Dining Rule #114

Few tidbits are better with cocktails than crisp, hot, thin French fries made from fresh potatoes.

Gourmet Gazetteer

The Old Kitchen Sage Sez

Edible Dictionary

Annals Of Popular Cuisine

Food In Forest Fires

Food Namesakes

Words To Eat By

Words To Drink By

The Recipe For A Certain Kind Of Funeral.

Click here for the cartoon.

####

Nothing happens, of course. By now I am not quite a basket case, but plenty agitated.

Darkness falls. We cross the Atchafalaya River in Morgan City. The bridge looks sturdy enough.

Bloomin’ Chicken Salad a la Potpourri

  • 2 bone-in chicken breasts
  • 1 small onion, cut up into chunks
  • Stems from a bunch of parsley (optional)
  • Leafy top of a bunch of celery, chopped coarsely
  • 1 tsp. black (or three-color) peppercorns
  • 8 oz. (by weight) slivered almonds
  • ~
  • Poppyseed dressing:
  • 1/3 cup sugar
  • 1/4 tsp. Colman’s dry mustard
  • 1/4 tsp. salt
  • 1/8 tsp. granulated onion or onion powder
  • 1 Tbs. poppyseeds
  • 1/3 cup vegetable oil
  • 3 Tbs. cider vinegar
  • 1 cup mayonnaise
  • 1 Tbs. chicken base (or stock–see instructions)
  • 2 ribs celery, thinly sliced
  • 2 heads Boston, bibb, or butter lettuce
  • Seasonal fresh fruits: strawberries, blueberries, melons, mango, pears, apricots, satsuma sections. . . whatever is available that sounds delicious

3. Chop the chicken into one-inch dice and refrigerate.

500BestSquareFries With Manchego Cheese. @ Capdeville

Capdeville. CBD: 520 Capdeville St. 504-371-5915.

AlmanacSquare July 12, 2017

Days Until. . .

Masters Of Food Research

Food Calendar

Gourmet Gazetteer

Exercising The Food Away

Annals Of Food Advertising

Deft Dining Rule #184

Annals Of The Dinner Table

Edible Dictionary

Food Namesakes

Words To Eat By

“I never did like chitlins. I think they spelled it wrong.”

Words To Drink By

“To eat, to drink, and to be merry.”–A toast from Ecclesiastes, 8:15.

The Recipe For A Certain Kind Of Funeral.

Click here for the cartoon.

#Sunday. June 25, 2017. 8:00 a.m.This is the big sightseeing day for the Fitz Family. We begin with our longtime tradition of a big breakfast. The Marys are intrigued by the Tartine Manufactory, a much-praised baker of hand-made sourdough and other breads and pastries. We can see that they’re not exaggerating the artisan quality of these loaves, because our table is a few feet from the mammoth ovens. The aroma of the breads is so alluring that all the girls buy a loaf just for their own uses.

11:00 a.m.Then we board.

11:22 a.m. Then we sit there for awhile.

500BestSquareChar-Broiled Oysters @ Drago’s

Drago’s. CBD: 2 Poydras. 504-584-3911.

||Metairie: 3232 N Arnoult Rd. 504-888-9254.

Drago’s Char-Broiled Oysters

  • 2 lb. butter, softened
  • 1/2 cup finely chopped fresh garlic
  • 1 Tbs. black pepper
  • 1 tsp. dried Italian seasoning
  • 6 dozen oysters on the half shell
  • 1 cup grated Parmesan and Romano cheeses, mixed
  • 3 Tbs. chopped parsley

1. Mix butter with the garlic, pepper, and Italian seasoning.

Serves eight to twelve normal people, or two serious oyster fanatics.

AlmanacSquare July 11, 2017

Days Until. . .

Celebrity Restaurateurs Today

Klara and Drago Cvitanovich.

Klara and Drago Cvitanovich.

Today’s Flavor

Gourmet Gazetteer

Annals Of Dueling

Gambling And Food

Dressing Up For Dinner

Edible Dictionary

Annals Of Overeating

Treat Of The Day

Food In The Wild

The Saints

Food Namesakes

Words To Eat By

Words To Drink By

The Least-Welcome Guest During The Holidays.

Click here for the cartoon.